Features / Bakeries
A decade of decadence at Ahh Toots
I don’t think we truly appreciate in Bristol how fortunate we are to have such a choice in brilliant bakeries. Hart’s, Farro, East Bristol, Assembly, Mark’s and more. Each is special in its own way but the most special of all is Ahh Toots, which recently celebrated a decade of decadence.
Now located at the foot of Christmas Steps in the former fish and chip shop that was once one of England’s oldest, demand has also necessitated a move to premises the other side of the historic gateway to St Bartholomew’s Hospital where co-owner and founder Tam Galliford can often be spied working on her latest tasty treats that are then put on display in the front window of the cafe to tempt passers-by.
Tam first opened Ahh Toots as a stall in the Glass Arcade at St Nick’s Market. The fine art graduate, who was formerly head baker at Papadeli in Clifton and spent time working in the acclaimed Franze & Evans restaurant in London’s trendy Shoreditch, is a self-taught chef. Ten years ago, she told me that Ahh Toots’ mission was “to make cake exciting, new and always delicious” and that has not changed.
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Ahh Toots’ original home was in the Glass Arcade at St Nick’s Market – photo: Martin Booth
I’ll admit here that I am a long-term fan of Ahh Toots. A cake made from Tam was pride of place at my nuptials (despite me forgetting to bring it to the reception at the Hope & Anchor on Jacob’s Wells Road) after we had previously enjoyed pastries from Hart’s Bakery at Full Court Press after an early register office wedding on Corn Street.
It’s a cliché but the cakes at Ahh Toots do sometimes look too good to eat. But of course that would be a terrible waste. Ahh Toots’ reputation is also now spreading beyond Bristol, with them earlier this year being named in the Times as one of the best places in the UK for afternoon tea.
For Ahh Toots co-owner Amy Symonds, who moved to Bristol in 2017 to work at the Pony & Trap as a pastry chef, it can be frustrating not to be able to accommodate guests for afternoon tea at busy times. Looking ahead to the next decade of the business, she would love to open a second site south of the river.
Amy grew up in Dolton, a small village in north Devon near Barnstable and joined the business in 2018 at a time when Tam had left the frontline of the cafe when it was still in St Nick’s to bake at a unit in St Gabriel’s Business Park in Easton.
Joining forces, the pair helped to drive both sides of the business, Amy in the cafe and Tam in the bakery. An idea to move into wholesale never came to fruition so they decided to look for somewhere where they could both bake and sell on site, eventually finding their current home on Christmas Steps thanks to a fortuitous introduction from Toby Bywater, the landlord of the Alma Tavern pub in Clifton.
Ahh Toots co-owners Tam Galliford (left) and Amy Symonds (right) soon after getting the keys to their Christmas Steps premises – photo: Ahh Toots
“This place just fitted our brand perfectly,” said Amy. “We always say we are an art-focussed bakery but it is also quite rustic and a bit rough around the edges, and that’s what we pride ourselves on. Coming from my own background which is pure finesse, this tastes good but is also quite wholesome. I feel that’s what the building is too: cosy, wholesome, traditional vibes.”
Ahh Toots moved into Christmas Steps the day before the first lockdown. Because they lived together, Amy and Tam were able to spend that first lockdown doing up the space themselves before opening initially for takeaway coffee and cake, with queues heading up Christmas Steps as word began to get out of a new place for treats in town.
“I think Tam and I are quite modest about what we do,” Amy admitted on a recent morning when we met for coffee at Dareshack, the newest business to open on Christmas Steps. “We do it because we love it…
“It’s more about surviving at the moment than thriving. We are never going to be millionaires, but if we can give people jobs and provide people with a safe space, that feels great to be able to do that.
“It’s a small treat to be able to have a bit of cake and a coffee. I don’t even like cake! I wouldn’t ever go out for a bit of cake. And neither would Tam, hilariously. My whole business model, I don’t understand! But people love it. Being able to have that small treat when you might not be able to have the bigger things, it keeps people going a bit.”
The cakes at Ahh Toots are individual works of art – photo: Rob Browne
Ahh Toots originally served Extract coffee from St Werburgh’s but now work closely with Radical Roasters in Easton, serving a special house blend that has been roasted by women.
Other collaborations have included the likes of a pop-up with Root at Wapping Wharf, and making mince pies with Laphroaig whisky for Filthy XIII cocktail bar on Cheltenham Road.
“It’s really lush in Bristol because we are so spoiled with so many amazing independent food places,” Amy adds. “And the standard is so high.”
Main photo: Rob Browne
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