News / New Openings
Bristol’s year in food and drink
Generally found in the vicinity of food, there are not many people more well qualified in Bristol than anonymous diner Chris, aka @PXandTarts on Twitter, to look back on 2016 in food and drink.
The sheer volume of restaurant openings in Bristol this year would be enough to have even the most wizened of restaurant critics suffering from exhaustion.
Arguably the biggest news was the relocation of acclaimed Casamia (pictured above) in January to The General from its home of 19 years in Westbury-on-Trym as it strives to achieve an elusive second Michelin star. Signs so far look promising.
is needed now More than ever
It was joined, later than anticipated, in July by Pi Shop and Paco Tapas in November. The former’s pizzas – innovative, seasonal flavours upon thick, pillowy sourdough bases – are too doughy for some, although any criticism didn’t prevent Best Pizza success at the Bristol Good Food Awards. The latter deals in impeccably sourced produce and ingredients cooked on a custom-made Robata Grill. The quality of the food – Galician sirloin, Carbineros prawns – is undisputable and matched only by its price. Not your every day tapas experience.
One of the most exciting launches of 2016 was Wilson’s, adding further appeal to food-centric Chandos Road. The terse daily menu is full of temptation. From hake with carrots, snails and parsley to indulgent vegetarian options like celeriac, trompette, hen’s egg and truffle, everything is a winner, and game dishes are especially good. Wilson’s has already attracted praise from Marina O’Loughlin, who was similarly positive about The Cauldron for The Guardian. Cooking only with solid fuels like charcoal and beech wood, The Cauldron is the kind of quirky “bubbling little melting pot of idiosyncrasy” that suits its St Werburgh’s location to a tee.
Another small but perfectly formed venue is Box-E, the only truly noteworthy arrival in an otherwise slightly underwhelming raft of newbies in the Cargo development at Wapping Wharf. Like George Livesey at the outstanding Bulrush (not quite a 2016 opening but still deserving of a mention), Elliot Lidstone trekked across the country with his family to branch out on his own and Bristol was the beneficiary. Open for just two months, the pannacotta already has a fan club.
It would be remiss not to mention Adelina Yard which officially opened right at the start of 2016 and is gaining widespread acclaim. Intriguing, well-thought-out tasting menus are the order of the day. Adelina Yard lost out to Park Street bakery Pinkman’s for the Best Newcomer award at this year’s Bristol Good Food Awards ceremony, one of a few puzzling decisions.
Not limited to Pi Shop, the proliferation of pizza peddlers continued apace. Street food stars Bertha’s settled down at the top of Wapping Wharf, bringing their infamous kimcheese pizza to the masses alongside ice cream and an inviting list of Negronis. A second branch of Flour & Ash, pioneers of the craze, opened in Casamia’s old premises, from where they have recently added brunch and lunch dishes to their ever-popular sourdough-based, wood-fired (naturally) beauties. Pizzarova cannot compete.
Though we champion small independents in Bristol, a couple of big names lumbered over from the Big Smoke in the summer. Celeb haunt The Ivy’s brasserie off-shoot in Clifton, all fur coat and no knickers, was swiftly followed by uber-cool Polpo on Whiteladies Road, which seems to be improving after an indifferent start but may just have arrived a couple of years too late to have its desired impact. This is in no small part thanks to the arrival of Pasta Loco, a tortellini’s throw away on Cotham Hill, slinging out top-notch freshly-made pasta dishes at prices reasonable enough to ensure lasting popularity, even after the inevitable initial buzz subsides. Meat Liquor joined a saturated burger market.
Brigstow Bar & Kitchen suffered from the loss of talented chef Andrew Clatworthy not long after reopening while just around the corner, Spoke & Stringer didn’t quite live up to expectations on my visit. Which barely leaves room to mention Mediterranean-ish Bambalan, not yet hitting the heights, affordable Japanse at Ramen Ya and decent Persian at Kuch. Phew.