Restaurants / Reviews

Dongnae, Chandos Road: ‘A beautiful day in the neighbourhood’ – restaurant review

By Seun Matiluko  Monday Oct 7, 2024

Dongnae, the second restaurant from the husband and wife team behind Bokman on Nine Tree Hill, is named after the Korean word for ‘neighbourhood’.

The food is inspired by co-owner Kyu Jeong Jeon’s upbringing in Seoul and the time she and her husband Duncan Robertson later spent there together with their young family before moving to Bristol.

When I entered Dongnae on Chandos Road in Redland, I was greeted by my friendly server, Anna, and sat at the bar immediately in front of the kitchen, meaning I got a first-hand look at Kyu, Duncan and their team of chefs hurriedly working behind the scenes.

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As a solo diner, I was given two books for my perusal while I waited and decided to start Uncomfortably Happy, a graphic novel by Yeon-sik Hong.

As a solo traveller for the evening, I was given two books to enjoy

I had got to page 58 when my Korean fried wings with a chilli seed glaze (£7.50) arrived, along with a finger bowl which I was very grateful for, knowing my hands were about to become a sticky mess.

I devoured the wings like a shredder, thoroughly appreciating how sumptuous, soft and tangy they were.

The Korean fried wings were a highlight of the menu

I cleaned my hands with the finger bowl and bopped in my chair along to Little Simz, Korean pop and cool jazz while I waited for the main event – the eonyang bulgogi (£18).

Another kind waitress came over and explained I should dip the beef in any sauce I fancied before putting it in a leaf and creating a wrap. The result was a delightfully smokey and satisfying dish.

The eonyang bulgogi was delightful

The only dessert on offer was delica squash with black sesame injeolmi (£5.50).

I was surprised when one of the servers described injeolmi as “basically Mochi” (a Japanese dish) although, once I started chewing, its texture made that comparison make sense.

The inejolmi wasn’t a bit of me

The injeolmi was ultimately a bit too savoury for my liking, but making sure some squash made it into each spoonful satisfied my sweet tooth.

I had a pleasant time at Dongnae and I am sure I will make my way back to the neighbourhood in the future.

Dongnae, 5-7 Chandos Road, Redland, Bristol, BS6 6PG
www.dongnae.co.uk

All photos: Seun Matiluko

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