Old Favourite: Rosemarino

Tucked away off the well-beaten Cliftonite track, Rosemarino is a real gem on the Bristol food scene. Bristol Good Food Awards sit proudly in the windows which flank two sides of the corner restaurant, flooding the upstairs dining room with light.

During a recent lunchtime, around half of the tables upstairs were occupied, and the atmosphere was one of gentle sophistication and low chatter. No shouting over the music here, and certainly no fuss or rush, despite the waves of rain pattering against the big windows.

Downstairs, in their larger dining room, a couple of tables were occupied by students celebrating the end of the year and end of exams by taking full and flagrant advantage of Rosemarino’s all-day breakfast menu. With dishes starting from just £6 (mushrooms on focaccia) and a full English breakfast costing just £9, it’s an absolute steal – and well within a tight student budget, especially if mum is picking up the tab when she comes to collect your things and bring you home.

The wine menu – like everything else here – is supremely well researched. The map at the front shows exactly where Rosemarino’s Italian selection are grown. These details make it clear that this is a team who really knows their cuisine, plus the tipple to pair it with.

I opted for a couple of dishes from the lunch menu (£12.50 for two courses or £15 for three). With just three starters, mains and dessert options, it is deliberately sleek and paired back, and this is reflected in the food too.

A first course of uovo in camicia con prosciutto e tartufo (soft poached egg with prosciutto and spinach) was simple but beautifully done. The bright yellow yolk leaked out gently when pierced, and the meat was wafer thin, smoky, salty and full-flavoured.

Accompanied by pureed spinach and gently shaved parmesan, it was rich and colourful without being overbearing for a light summer lunch. A splash of truffle oil added depth and luxury to the dish. It was perfectly seasoned, and I happily mopped it all up with a hunk of crusty focaccia, which could have been a little fresher.

The second course, sgombro con panzanella (mackerel fillets with a salad of cherry tomatoes, capers and shallots) was equally delicious. The fish was crisp and warm, the flesh delicate, tender and fragrant. The cold salad was fresh, with lovely ripe cherry tomatoes and a simple oil-based dressing. It felt like a dish to be eaten beside the sea with a cold, crisp white wine and a warm breeze.

As the last mouthful was finished, one of Rosemarino’s cheerful suppliers pushed open the door, bearing an armful of fresh vegetables and eggs. There’s no secret to producing excellent food: it’s about good ingredients and a clear sense of how to use them together on a plate. Clearly, the team at Rosemarino have both elements in spades.

Rosemarino
1 York Place
Clifton
BS8 1 AH
01179 736 677
www.clifton.rosemarino.co.uk