Souk Kitchen – restaurant review

In a city brimming with mighty fine eateries, Souk Kitchen is certainly holding its own as one of Bristol’s most sought-after dining destinations.

The dinner reservation was finally set for Tuesday evening after two failed attempts to get a last minute booking over the weekend – and with plenty of time to whet the appetite, this North Street restaurant had a lot to live up to.

A tantalising scent of Middle Eastern-inspired cooking wafts out of the open door into the midsummer evening heat, and inside a beaming waitress welcomes the steady flow of people drifting in.

Early diners linger over wine glasses and desserts, as empty tables start to fill up fast.

Gloriously unpretentious, the setting is light and homely. Jars of preserves and books are stacked on wooden shelves, where a string of fairy lights let off a soft glow, and colourful cans of produce are displayed against the vibrant patterns on the back wall.

Tables and chairs are simply adorned with cans, put to good use as cutlery holder, and salt and pepper.

A bottle of chilled water is placed on the table, along with menus offering evening diners a choice of mezze dishes (ranging from £4.50 – £6.50), starters and main meals.

We opt for two mains, with a starter of chef’s dips with flatbread and a bottle of white wine.

Pouring the aforementioned wine, the waiter’s demeanour is in stark contrast to his ever-smiling colleague, but behind the glasses worn low on his nose, there is a twinkle in his eye that belies the serious expression. Both servers are effortless in their skill at working the busy room.

The wine sets the bar high: perfectly chilled with a light, refreshing tang, it goes down all too easily on a hot summer evening.

Before long, the starter (£6.80) arrives – really a meal in its own right and a visual delight as three china plates are placed on the table, each containing a different, beautifully presented dip. The piece de resistance lands in the form of a plateful of hot, glistening flat bread, fresh from the oven and lightly charred at one end, which only adds to a taste and texture that is to die for.

The dip medley – a roasted broccoli adorned with pumpkin seeds, an artichoke and white bean scattered with roasted almond flakes and a mushroom with pomegranate seeds – really raises the bar with its inventive fusion of flavours.

The sight of the delicious spread prompts a couple at a neighbouring table to lean over and ask what the dish is, before ordering one for themselves.

It is all too filling a combination, but we keep on going back for more until the plates are clean.

After a brief breather, we’re just about ready for the main course, which is just as imaginatively presented.

The Baharat roasted aubergine (£13.50) is an outright winner – the vegetables offering a tasty hint of Moroccan spices, complemented by the flavoursome saffron rice, tahini dressing and soft, creamy feta. Cherry tomatoes and fresh coriander are liberally sprinkled on top, giving the dish a refreshing lift.

The ghalieh mahi (£14), a Southern Persian fish curry, proves more of a Marmite dish (not literally Marmite flavour, although the colour bears a striking resemblance). The fenugreek and tamarind seasoned sauce is a potent sweet and sour combination that is loved by many, but is certainly an acquired taste.

While, for us, it is the low point in an otherwise delicious meal, £1 from each dish served goes Temwa, a charity that works to help support a northern Malawi community that is one of the poorest in the world. It’s touches like this that make the Souk Kitchen such a down-to-earth-delight.

Regretfully declining the offer of desserts, we linger over the last of the wine and soak up the buzz of chatter and ever-enticing scents wafting from the open kitchen.

It’s not hard to see why Souk Kitchen remains a firm favourite with Bristolians. Hearty, imaginative, honest food, in an unpretentious setting, with some good wine to wash it down – it doesn’t get much better.

Souk Kitchen, 277 North Street, Southville, Bristol, BS3 1JP
0117 966 6880
www.soukitchen.co.uk

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