Zara, St Jude’s: ‘I’m telling everyone I know about it’ – restaurant review

Search for ‘Zara restaurant Bristol’ in Google and you’ll be directed to either an international clothing chain or Za Za Bazaar, neither of which is worth seeking out.

Actually, I have once or twice found something lovely in Zara, but the same can absolutely not be said for Za Za Bazaar. I’d rather pick off and chew every tile on the keyboard I’m typing this on than go back to that all-you-can-eat monstrosity.

But this is the story of a restaurant called Zara, a small, family-run Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant in St Jude’s which is full to the brim with lovely things; lovely people, lovely tables and – not least – lovely food.

Ethiopian and Eritrean food is not nearly as abundant in Bristol as burgers, pizza or falafel – making it even more of a treat when you find it. And find it you must. Zara opened just over a month ago without much fanfare and is yet to be discovered by the majority of restaurant-goers.

You won’t find their plates plastered across social media and their website is tucked away in the graveyard of the internet: page two of Google. It’s highly likely that the many passers-by headed for Old Market or Stapleton Road will dismiss it as a kebab shop or fast food joint, a most unfortunate error indeed. Admittedly, the signage outside could be working harder.

The combination injera at Zara is like having ten meals in one

Those that do seek it out will be rewarded with injera, a fermented, pancake-like flatbread reminiscent of a rolled-out crumpet, topped with a different daal or vegetable concoction at each hour of its doughy clock face.

The Zighini injera (£32 for two people) was enthusiastically recommended to us by the restaurant owners. It comes with a side of more injera pancakes, rolled up like the little hand-towel face cloths that you get in the bathrooms of posh hotels.

They’re wonderfully soft and yet sturdy enough that I’m not worried in the slightest about the lack of cutlery or the fact that I’m wearing white jeans. Or perhaps it’s just that the whole plate looks appetising enough that I no longer care.

Though similar in looks, these were substantially more delicious than hotel face cloths

In the middle, a bowl of slowly stewed beef in a rich curry sauce, which should be dramatically upended so that the contents soak into the injera. There are few things more eye-rollingly good than curry-laden bread. Most of the dishes at Zara come in this format – a range of curries all sitting smartly in the centre of a startlingly large flatbread.

There’s enough variety on the plate to make it feel like a lazy Susan inspired culinary adventure and yet at the same time the whole experience is wonderfully homely. Some of the vegetables were more inspiring than others but the pickled and fermented crudités provided a sharp and welcome contrast to the earthy lentils.

My sister was happy to help with this review. I hope it’s not patronising to say that I found this restaurant adorable

I’ve fallen completely in love with the colourful tables, which come with a lid so that when you’ve eaten your meal you can cover up the plates to indicate you’re finished. Now I feel rather like my table at home is missing a hat.

Drinks at Zara are cans directly from the nearby fridge and I have not been able to ascertain whether or not they have a dessert menu. I cannot stress enough that this does not matter in the slightest.

Before we left, the owner regaled us with tales of Ethiopia and their food culture. He was so animated and delighted that we had visited his restaurant. He introduced us to his wife and insisted that we tell everyone we know about Zara.

So there you are – I am telling everyone I know (and rather a lot that I don’t know) about Zara in St Jude’s (next to the former Crown pub). It’s far more worthy of the first page of Google than the algorithms would have you believe.

Zara, 14 Lawfords Gate, St Jude’s, Bristol, BS2 0DY
zarahabesha.uk

All photos: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

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