Kiosk – cafe review

Watch out falafels of Bristol, there’s a new protein ball in town – and it tastes delicious.

The story of how this revelation came to pass begins at a colourful little kiosk on Welsh Back that has recently had a makeover and thrown open up its window hatch to offer healthy plant-based food to the masses.

With big green trees throwing dappled shade over big wooden picnic tables on the cobbled ground and views over the water, out to Bristol Bridge and beyond, there are few finer spots in the city to enjoy a relaxed lunch.

It is with a beaming smile that Victoria Holden and Rory McKenna greet customers at Kiosk on their first official day of trade since opening to cater for the crowds at Pride and the Harbour Festival over the past two weekends.

Cheerful green plants now adorn the compact interior and exterior of the striped kiosk, which back in the day peddled hot donuts.

The menu today is an exceptionally simple, chalkboard affair offering a salad box (£4.50), salad box with crispy mushroom balls (£5.50) or a mushroom ball wrap (£6). The likes of loaded chips and cashew mac and cheese were available for the festival, so keep your eyes peeled for different variations.

Opting for the salad box, with added mushroom goodness, I give in to temptation and add a vegan brownie, a stack of which are temptingly balanced on the small counter top, and a cold can of apple Cawston Press, before taking my haul over to one of the long tables set out by the waterside.

And here, the magic of the mushroom balls is discovered. Fresh from the fryer, they glisten lightly in the midday sunshine, irregular in shape and darkish brown in colour, set atop a vibrant bed of salad.

Crisp to bite into, each protein-filled piece is perfectly seasoned, with a hint of nut that complements the flavoursome mushroom. They are delectable in taste and consistency and prove the crown jewel on a dish that is enticing and inventive throughout.

The salad contains a variety of different textured greens, tossed in with a generous helping of hazelnuts, seeds, tomatoes and more, blended with a combination of tahini and basil dressing that add a pleasant, light tang.

Brownie (well half of it – it was too good to resist for long!)

The brownie, glittering with a sparkly pink dust, is slightly crumbly, but with a rich chocolate taste offset by big chunks of ginger that leave a pleasant tang on the tongue – it is just the right level of sweet and moreish, and certainly doesn’t last long.

It is a meal that is enjoyable and satisfying, in a setting that is hard to beat.

A simple concept, they may be, but expertly crafted as they are here, mushroom balls add a whole new dimension to the vegan diet and they are guaranteed to have food lovers bouncing back for more.

In a city with a seemingly endless appetite for inventive, plant-based cuisine, this cheerful little kiosk makes a welcome addition.

Kiosk, Welsh Back, Bristol, BS1 4AN
www.instagram.com/kioskwelshback

Read more: Welsh Back kiosk’s colourful new lease of life