Travel / Travel

24 hours on a retreat in the Wye Valley

By Ellie Pipe  Monday May 13, 2024

My mottled, sun-starved toes slowly unfurl and sink down into the soft moss and mud below as we begin to walk. We are deep in the Wye Valley countryside, the only sounds around are the soft trill of birdsong and the rustle of the wind high up in the trees above.

It’s not every Saturday I find myself strolling barefoot along an ancient forest track, my senses tuning into every sensation around me as I try to determine if this is a meditative awakening or just plain cold.

This is forest bathing, an ancient Japanese practice of relaxation, known in Japan as Shinrin Yoku, that works to reduce stress and promote relaxation. As my feet adjust to what is actually a comforting embrace of the mossy forest floor, any scepticism ebbs and I find myself taking long, deep breaths to soak in the scents of the ancient woodland.

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It’s no secret that being outside in the countryside has positive effects on wellbeing and some might question whether you need to go to such lengths to reap the benefits, but the Japanese – for whom forest bathing is a vital part of preventative healthcare – have got this one right. It’s not just being barefoot, although I’m now a huge advocate of this, but the deliberate act of turning phones off, closing our eyes and really tuning into the forest.

It’s not every Saturday I find myself strolling barefoot along an ancient forest track – photo: Jo at Jellyrock PR

Tom, our forest guide, takes time to talk us through the secrets of the forest as we wander – from the mycelium networks working their magic below the trees to the poisonous, and potentially hallucinogenic, properties of yew trees.

“Up here next,” he says cheerfully, unperturbed as the sunshine gives way to a pelting hail storm. We wander, we close our eyes to explore the forest by sound and touch, some of us hug a tree. It doesn’t sound groundbreaking but somehow it is as, after some two and a half hours, we emerge from the trees just as the springtime sun comes out to bathe us in its warmth.

There’s something very special about soaking your senses in an ancient forest – photo: Ellie Pipe

Forest Retreats is based at Hill Farm, a picture-perfect spot glistening anew from the hail storm up high in the Wye Valley with views of rolling hills of greenery. Hayley and Tom upped sticks from Bristol to follow their dream of running retreats in the idyllic location six years ago and have spent that time turning the farm into an eco retreat.

The all-day retreat started with a morning yoga session with Hayley, who patiently guided the mixed ability group through the session in the calming confines of the studio in a converted outhouse with long windows to make the most of an enviable view.

This was followed by a vegetarian brunch feast washed down with cups of coffee (or incredible herbal tea from local artisan producer Little Batch). If the scenery and atmosphere alone aren’t enough to tempt you, the food at Hill Farm sure should. All created by Tom, using a lot of seasonal produce – much of which is grown on site – meals are a visual and culinary delight.

After forest bathing, we retire to the sun-soaked warmth of the converted lamb shed that serves as a base for meals and endless cups of tea. Before long, Tom reappears with the next offering, this time a homemade soup of foraged wild garlic, served with homemade hummus and crisps to dip in it.

Yoga with a view at Hill Farm – photo: Jo at Jellyrock PR

If the scenery isn’t enough to entice you, go for the food alone – photo: Jo at Jellyrock PR

A slow afternoon yoga session leaves my body and legs feeling heavy and vaguely floaty. Is this what deep relaxation feels like? As day turns to evening, the woodfired pizza oven is fired up and plate after plate of hot, delicious pizza is served with ever-inventive toppings that Tom delights in creating.

I’m treated to a massage before retiring to the eco hot tub, where we gaze contentedly up at the stars and almost full moon casting a shimmery light over the dark rolling hills.

There’s an ice cold plunge pool that I had earlier vowed I would be going nowhere near. But, with the warmth of the hot water coasting through me and a new ‘give anything a try’ attitude, I take the plunge in the cold night air before diving straight into the welcoming embrace of the sauna.

Tomorrow, reality beckons but whenever I need to regain this sense of calm, you’ll find me deep in the Wye Valley, quite possibly barefoot and hugging a tree.

Find out more about Forest Retreats via: www.forestretreats.co.uk.

Where to stay:
Forest Retreats have beautiful yurts for glamping that can be booked individually or as part of a retreat.

We stayed at the Wye Valley Hotel. which is a five minute drive or 15-20 minute walk from Forest Retreats.

Main photo: Jo at Jellyrock PR

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