Escape to Ottery St Mary

There can’t be many towns in England these days with a butcher, a baker and a candlestick maker – Ottery St Mary boasts all three, and plenty more besides.

It’s a drizzly Friday October evening and peak time at Rosey’s Chippy in town, where people are queuing out the door as we arrive. Lights from nearby pubs and restaurants beckon customers in from the rain and there’s a quiet, rural calm about the place.

Ottery has two main claims to fame: as the birthplace of romantic poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge and for its annual November 5 celebrations, in which flaming barrels of tar are carried through the narrow streets while crowds look on, in a tradition that dates back hundreds of years and is certainly not for the faint-hearted.

Ottery Tar Barrels happens on November 5 each year, in a tradition dating back centuries

In truth, this vibrant town has a lot more to offer than books and burning barrels.

Mazzard Farm holiday cottages – just a short drive from town along some winding country lanes, avoiding a treacherous pot hole or two – proves an ideal base from which to explore this pocket of East Devon.

Even on a dark, damp evening, it’s a picture perfect scene, with an ancient farmhouse nestled into the autumnal foliage, overlooking a stone courtyard and converted barns, with orchards (from which the farm once made a living) stretching beyond.

The door of the farmhouse opens to reveal a smiling face and warm welcome from hosts Ruud and Jacqueline.

The cottage is everything you could want in a weekend escape: cosy and comfortable, with gently sloping ceilings, clean, soft furnishings, a fully kitted-out kitchen and a stove in the stone fireplace for cold nights.

Mazzard Farm used to be a working apple farm

The cottages are clean, cosy and well-equipped

The country air and comfortable setting makes for a good nights sleep

It is the attention to detail that really sets Mazzard Farm apart: the handmade soap in the bathroom, homemade apple juice in the fridge (made with the farm’s own apples), the proper cream tea laid out on arrival.

A communal outhouse hosts an assortment of extras – from children’s toys and tourist information, to spare loo roll, sausages (available to buy and made from the farm’s own pigs), breakfast pastries, apple juice and gift-wrapped homemade soaps can all be purchased via an honesty box system.

After a wonderfully comfortable night’s sleep, it is a pure joy to throw open the wide bedroom windows to breath in the fresh Devonshire and hear the soft crow of a cockerel down below.

As well as being an idyllic retreat, Mazzard Farm boasts some impressive green credentials. The restoration of once-derelict barns was done with the highest eco standards in mind, a biomass heating boiler provides hot water and heating, solar PV panels supply a good portion of the energy used.

There is also a discount for guests who arrive by public transport and bicycles available to use.

A short cycle (or even shorter drive, depending on the weather) takes guests into the midst of a bustling Saturday morning in town, where there are breakfast options aplenty.

The Rusty Pig is rustic and welcoming

The Rusty Pig’s reputation precedes it – and this is one eatery that is worth all the fuss.

Owner Robin Rea grew up in Ottery, and honed his trade in restaurants around the world, working in Bristol before returning to open his own venture in 2011, with a strong focus on sustainable, ethical food, sourced from local suppliers and producers.

The tantalising scent of bacon hits you as you walk through the door into the welcoming, farmhouse kitchen-style café. It’s a busy Saturday morning breakfast and a large crowd are happily tucking in around the huge central wooden table.

Décor throughout the eatery is rustic, with enamel signs and artefacts covering the walls upstairs, where yet more diners are chatting over a leisurely breakfast.

Being a vegetarian in a place renowned for its pork products is a bold move, but the chef didn’t miss a beat, producing an exceptional veggie option of chargrilled toast, divine with a generous coating of creamy butter, a coddled egg, spicy beans and gently charred halloumi. Never mind that it’s breakfast time, The Rusty Pig treats all diners to a refreshing amuse-bouche pate beforehand.

Washed down with fresh coffee and large glasses of locally-made apple juice, it is both a satisfying and relaxing way to start, setting you up for a day of exploring.

The ‘Hello Beans’ veggie option was a winner

Ottery St Mary Parish Church is a famous local landmark

No trip to Ottery is complete without a trip to see its famous church, standing majestically on a hill, overlooking the historic town below. There’s also a compact museum for those craving a bit of history and culture.

A bit of the beaten track compared to nearby tourist destinations, this is a genuinely thriving community and much of the joy as a visitor is to wander through the town’s many independent shops and pop into the library, where a children’s bike workshop is underway while residents of all ages browse the bookshelves.

With not one, but two butchers, a bakery, cobblers, wine merchant, newsagents, angling store, fruit and veg shop, cafes, pubs, a bookshop and more, Ottery can be entirely self-sufficient.

It is also ahead of the curve, with a refill shop, Fillfull, packed full of goods for customers to fill their own containers, as well as an assortment of ethical products and a counter with fresh deli options and vegan treats.

A few shops along is The Recycled Candle Company’s HQ, an Aladdin’s cave of wax and wick. The business was set up by partners Richard and Sargon in 2015 and now supplies high end stockists around the country.

It’s easy to spend an entire weekend enjoying all that Ottery has to offer, but then you’d miss out on the vast array of wonderful destinations in the vicinity, all accessible by bus or car.

Sunset in Sidmouth

The regency town of Sidmouth, with its postcard setting, stunning clifftop walks and calm cobbled shores is well worth a visit – indulge in some award-winning gelato at Taste and take an amble along the esplanade – just watch out for seagulls.

Exmouth generally attracts a younger crowd, with its vast expanse of sand and watersport opportunities, while the historic lace town of Honiton is perfect for an afternoon tea, or a pottery painting session on a rainy day.

Or, get your walking boots on, grab a map and supplies and set out to explore the beautiful East Devon countryside.

Retiring back to the cotttage with a takeaway option from the widely-acclaimed Samosa Lady, who specialises in home-cooked, authentic Indian dishes and – of course – giant, tasty samosas, is a perfect way to finish a long day.

Take some time to explore the grounds of Mazzard Farm before leaving: pop to see the pigs, ducks and goats, walk through the apple trees in the orchard – there is no better antidote to the grind of city life.

For families in particular, it is an ideal destination, with ample safe space to explore, numerous toys, climbing frames and opportunity for adventure, as well as longer countryside walks. The only wrench is having to leave.

Orchards at Mazzard Farm