
Travel / Weekend breaks
The Pig near Bath
Set within the Mendip Hills, The Pig near Bath is a 29 room hotel and restaurant with a homely, luxurious style
I recently watched an interview with Cheryl Strayed the writer of the book – and now film – Wild. She said that people respond to Wild, by telling her about their own lives, as well as how her story affected them and how elements have even been life changing. This she says, is bridge building. That art builds bridges full of feeling and emotion, between people and experiences. Art is essentially, a connection. Now, I wouldn’t say that The Pig, nestled in the Mendip Hills has changed my life, however I would say that the bridge that they have built between home and hotel is an exquisite one. Home is inherently a place full of emotions and travel can open eyes, teach and inspire; so a place that combines the attributes of both can only be a bridge of splendour – with chickens and cocktails.
When people visit a hotel, there are certain expectations; a friendly reception, clean room, tea and coffee facilities and warm water. Depending on price, location and personality, some hotels will add in various extras, a roll top bath, flat screen TV, breakfast in a paper bag left on the door handle, once I had a towel shaped like a swan left on my bed – Bali. What sets The Pig apart – aside from the incredible food – is that very special skill of making you feel you are in a tranquil, slick and sumptuous version of your home; enormous bed, large windows with views out to a sweet deer park, monsoon shower, stocked ‘larder’, drinks in the plush drawing room, log fires that don’t ever turn to soot, ingredients sourced no further than 25 miles away, spirits, beers and ales infused with flavours plucked from the garde
Sat in the greenhouse restaurant having dinner, with the rain lashing down outside, shades of green plants weaved throughout the space, little plant pots on tables, candlelight and smooth red wine, we’d escaped to a contemporary British haven in the countryside. The friendly and welcoming team give the impression that they are having a good time too, taking the time to bask in this Somerset idyll with you. The hotel has been open for less than one year and it’s enjoyed great success. Guests come with a broad demographic and purpose; a casual night away, passing through, a visit to the massage treatment rooms, or something very special. You’re always welcome in this The Good Life oasis. Wander around the beautifully kept kitchen garden, say hello to the free range chickens and slot yourself in to the decor, which is snug, slightly eclectic and the right helping of aspirational and attainable.
Head chef James Golding is accompanied in the kitchen by the kitchen gardener and forager to ensure as much produce from the garden is used in the menu. For dinner we shared a hen’s egg with a rich golden yoke – from those happy hens just outside – and for mains I had belly pork, while my companion enjoyed mallard. The belly pork meat was layered with a beautiful crackling top. I’ve never had such delicate crackling and the mash complemented it perfectly. Desserts included a light rhubarb and ginger sponge with ginger ice-cream, a spotted dick suet pudding and creamy rice pudding with a golden crunchy caramelised top. Truly a glorious meal. We had red wine to accompany, although pondered on whether to get the Sommelier’s choice, which is a wine by glass, chosen by the Sommelier from further down the list, ensuring that guests try those dusty, expensive wines – great idea.
We stayed in a large bedroom at the front of the house, painted light grey with a Roberts radio tuned to Classic FM playing as we entered. Thick fabric blinds, a fridge and a larder of snacks, as well as two arm chairs upholstered in wide check wool fabric, a high and substantial bed, enormous bath by the window and separate shower and toilet rooms. Calm, warm and smartly decorated, it was a place to relax before dinner and sleep comfortably before the sun rose and mist spread across the deer park.
The mansion was previously a hotel in the 70s and 80s, and you can certainly imagine guests swanning around with a floral wallpaper background to their pops of colour and laughter. The Pig have stripped it all back to the original, creating a simple and chic space with the addition of their ‘Pig’ details – like the furniture sourced throughout the country by The Pig owner, including the squashy sofas, art work, mis-matched crockery and papier mach stag heads. Then there’s that lounging atmosphere. You could arrive at 5pm and stay until the afternoon the next day – simply lounging. There are ‘Pig People’ I am told, those that travel to each The Pig hotel, dedicated to their feel and style. And why not, they’ve made this old, gorgeous mansion somewhere to truly live for a night or two. From a Rosemary Collins next to the log fire at 7pm, to the coffee playing snooker at 11pm, it’s all delicious and not absurdly over the top – it’s real life, but better.
www.thepighotel.com / Rooms from £139
The Pig near Bath, Hunstrete House, Penford, Nr Bath, BS39 4NS