Columnists / Meg Houghton-Gilmour

‘We need to build places where people will actually want to live’

By Meg Houghton-Gilmour  Wednesday Mar 13, 2024

Ask any Bristol chef where they like to eat, and they will almost always mention Mayflower.

Perhaps it’s because it stays open until 3am, and so is one of the few places that serves something other than a kebab after an evening shift in the kitchen.

Or maybe it’s because the traditional Cantonese cuisine is some of the best in the city; Freddy Bird of Little French and 1 York Place is a fan of the crispy fried pig’s intestines whereas Kit Lee from Fat Rice prefers the stir fried gai lan.

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Or maybe it is simply because it has been going for thirty years and has become a Bristol institution.

So I expect there will be a lot of chefs left in mournful late night limbo if the approved plans to develop Haymarket Walk mean that the restaurant closes for good.

As it currently stands, Mayflower, Sky Kong Kong and the soon-to-be-closed Flow are all set to be levelled later this year to make room for two blocks of flats.

There are plans for a food or drink establishment in the new development, but no doubt the rent will make such a spot only accessible to chains and franchises.

One of the restaurants in the area that Bristol24/7 columnist Meg Houghton-Gilmour will not miss

I don’t think anyone is under the illusion that the Bearpit is a particularly nice place to hang out.

But the repeated efforts at social cleansing and now the faux public space plans leave a sour taste in my mouth.

My greatest concern is that the businesses that have been told they have until June 1 to clear out are not being offered any support to move, and the plans have included minimal community consultation.

Soon the shutters will be closed on Mayflower permanently

With rents across the city so high, these restaurants are going to really struggle to open elsewhere.

Wizzy Chung from Sky Kong Kong is planning to take a break and focus on running pop-ups and seeking out street food opportunities instead, as renting somewhere else in Bristol that supports the style of restaurant she would want to run would be “impossible”.

As an ardent supporter of buying local produce, Wizzy’s departure from the area will have an impact on the local ecosystem and other nearby independent businesses.

Nevermind the loss to the local community; Wizzy has long been known for prioritising serving delicious, healthy and interesting food to those who need it over making a large profit.

Plus, if Mayflower moves, where else is going to give them a licence to stay open until 3am? It simply won’t be the same.

Yes, building accommodation in a housing crisis is essential. But consultation and care is required to make sure that we build responsibly, to create somewhere that people will actually want to live.

This is an opinion piece by Meg Houghton-Gilmour, Bristol24/7’s Head of Audience. Subscribe here to her weekly food & drink newsletter.

All photos: Meg Houghton-Gilmour

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