‘Craft beer can be a great career in Bristol’

A woman walked into a craft beer bar and tentatively admitted: “I don’t like beer.” 

In this particular case, that woman was me.

I learnt a lot about beer those first few months. I learnt how to brew it, serve it and indeed, how to drink it (albeit slowly, and in thirds). Whilst I was drinking, serving, talking and learning about beer, I unwittingly opened myself to learn more about Bristol.

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Read more: ‘Are craft beer pubs ruining Bristol?’

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Beer has been wonderful for Bristol. Moor Beer Co head brewer Justin Hawke succinctly put it as having “revitalised the craft industry, created employment, brought the focus back to quality, encouraged tourism, and now it’s proved that it’s sustainable to keep things local. It’s also had a beneficial effect on the whole supply chain – buying barley from British farmers and hops from British growers, supporting brewers, bars and consumers – and everyone in between.”

Moor Beer Co have been pioneers of British craft beer, bringing British hops and malt to the forefront of brewing once again. They are also one of a growing number of breweries, bars and taprooms supporting Bristol-based, independent ‘pop-ups’ alongside their regular menus.

Guy and Vic from Eatchu, a three-month-old Japanese gyoza kitchen, has already been given a regular pitch outside BrewDog on Baldwin Street. ““We got our break at BrewDog by walking up to the bar and asking whether we could trade outside, and Molly (BrewDog manager) immediately said yes. Based on the size of our outfit and the number of covers we can deal with per day, we’ve yet to approach the big national pub chains with our food offering, however it’s unrealistic to imagine that we’d be met with the same level of enthusiasm as we have received from Bristol’s craft beer scene. We’ve also planned a pop-up residency at the Hillgrove which has a full calendar of kitchen takeovers, something which allows us to promote ourselves to a wider audience and to associate with another established and much loved Bristol pub”.

The craft beer industry links so wholesomely with so many other Bristol based independents that sometimes its hard to see who benefits more, the breweries, or the shops, bars and restaurants stocking their beers. Seeing local beers sold in Sunni’s in St Werburgh’s, Southville Deli, Better Food, as well as successful beer-centric stores such as Brew Bristol, Brewers Droop and Corks shows us just how vital craft beer has become for the Bristol economy.

As well as pop-ups, businesses such as The Bristol Cheesemonger, Source, Ginger Beards Preserves and Boris the German sausage man, work closely with local breweries and bars. Eateries such as Bakers & Co, The Nettle & Rye and Chomp pride themselves on stocking local beers and even unlicensed premises such as Small Street Espresso feel the benefits of craft beer.

“It helps people to identify quality and to encourage specialisation within other industries,” says Jack Hudspith from Small Street Espresso. “Craft beer is definitely a valuable gateway commodity for consumers who then become more discerning when it comes to other products.”

Other breweries have also staunchly supported all things local. Wild Beer from near Shepton Mallet plan to open their new bar and restaurant at Wapping Wharf this summer. They are beer and food experts, selling many of their wild fermented, barrel aged and blended creations in top ranked restaurants.

Wild Beer’s Andrew Gibson said: “Our focus is on collaboration and community rather than exclusivity. We’ve focused on bringing food and beer together – pairing incredible seafood with incredible beer. We’re hoping to have a geographically significant affect too, to bring people between the craft beer centres of North Street and King Street.”

This pairing of beer with food is a movement that seems unstoppable. Jade from Brewdog Bristol notes that “beer has such an incredible range of flavour, inspiring great beer and food pairings – even better than the traditional food and wine!” She also remarked that with such a huge community of craft beer enthusiasts, one of the best parts is the respect shown for other opinions, both on different beers and on unusual pairings. 

Craft beer has also had an important role to play in shaping the futures of many Bristolians. Bartending is no longer a part time job but a career. Many bars run or host educational courses, either independently or through the Cicerone or BJCP exam courses.

The success of already existing breweries has inspired others, like Good Chemistry and Lost & Grounded to open up in Bristol. There’s also personal gain to be had from craft beer – many people I’ve spoken to within the industry have made conscious decisions to brew and work with beer because they love it. They love making it, marketing it and sharing it with friends, family and total strangers.

Nobody put this better than Rich, the brewer at Left Handed Giant: “The loss of my dad reminded me how precious and short life can be. I decided that I owed it to myself to give commercial brewing a go – something I enjoyed and seemed to be pretty good at. It was a gradual process, one day a week for a couple of years and then eventually after learning about the workings of the industry, I had the confidence to cut the umbilical of my laboratory day job and become a full time brewer. The work is very challenging and ever changing but is a lot more satisfying and interesting than any previous work I’ve done.”

For those people who have made that leap of faith and committed to starting a new business or working in a different industry, there are obviously challenges to overcome. Kelly, the brewer at Good Chemistry, says: “Starting a new business is always going to be hard, and in an industry that’s experienced such growth in recent years you would expect fierce competition and possibly a level of new brewery fatigue. But since starting Good Chemistry we’ve received nothing but support, interest and positivity, from fellow brewers, pubs and bars across the city, and the great drinking public.” 

That sense of community and support is also noted by Jack Granger of the Big Beer Co: “The thing I love most about the craft beer industry in the UK and specifically in Bristol, is the passion and knowledge of the people involved. Whether they be bartenders, brewers, salespeople or drinkers, there is always a drive to push each other forward. Importantly, this is not done in an overly competitive, self serving way, but is one that encourages collaboration and shared learning. The willingness of apparent competitors to share ideas and experiences sets this industry apart from any other I have been involved in”. 

Even for someone like me, a wet-behind-the-ears pup of the craft beer world, there is an unrivaled optimism, a willingness to support, to share knowledge and to invite enthusiasm from brewers, business owners, hospitality staff, entrepreneurs and even more especially from the people who come into whichever bar I’m working in, at any hour of the day, and who are always happy to share their thoughts, passions, to learn or just to have a good time –  and make mine even more memorable.

I’ve donned my pink wellies, waded in, and loved every minute of it.

Jo Barnes is a Bristol based bar manager and certified beer server who can just as easily be found in front of a bar (or hanging around breweries) as behind one

Read more: Pub of the Week: Left Handed Giant tap room