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Call to support independents or risk losing diversity in Bristol’s food scene

By Ellie Pipe  Tuesday Dec 15, 2020

A restaurateur has warned the rich diversity that makes Bristol’s food scene so special will vanish unless people support independents to ensure their survival.

Freselam Temesgen runs Real Habesha with her father and says the pandemic has presented challenges not only in financial terms – with the doors closed for all but takeaway orders – but also in the loss of a community hub.

The 19-year-old is urging the public to do all they can to support the city’s independent restaurants and cafes, saying that if family-run businesses like hers can’t survive, there is a risk the city will go backwards in terms of a food offering that is reflective of its diverse population.

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Speaking about the impact of the pandemic on The Real Habesha, Freselam says: “This year has been a very difficult one. As a family who rely on our restaurant for our income, the pandemic has presented real challenges.

“Prior to the pandemic, The Real Habesha wasn’t just a restaurant but a place in our community where people got to learn more about each other and about the different cultures that exist in our city. My father and I have really missed being at the centre of that. We’ve really missed the connection with our regulars and those who try us for the first time.”

The Ethiopian and Eritrean restaurant on Stapleton Road, which was forced to shut during the first lockdown, had to shut its doors once more in November and is only able to offer takeaway food for as long as Bristol remains in tier 3.

Freselam continues: “Whilst my father and I are hopeful we will return to some form of normality and get back to serving again in 2021, my concern for Bristol is that if independent, family-run restaurants like ours can’t survive then the diversity of our city’s food scene will vanish.

“Already, Bristol’s food scene does not truly represent the diversity of the city and instead of this improving in the years to come, I am worried this will go backwards. In my opinion, diverse restaurants provide a great platform for people to learn about, appreciate and understand others and I don’t want to live in a city where this isn’t the case.”

Freselam argues that independently-run food businesses are more likely to support the local economy, saying she and her father use Bristol Sweet Mart on St Mark’s Road and Istanbul Supermarket on Stapleton Road to buy fresh produce daily for their restaurant, keeping money circulating within the Easton community.

Freselam adds: “We’re set to lose a lot if we can’t find ways to support independent food businesses. So I’m calling on the people of Bristol, who are able, to order takeaways, to buy gift vouchers or to call on their MPs to do more to support independent hospitality businesses so that they exist when we come out the other side.”

Real Habesha Restaurant is only able to offer takeaway due to the coronavirus restrictions – photo by Lowie Trevena

Freselam spoke out as part of the Bristol Bites Back Better campaign, which aims to empower Bristolians to build a better and more sustainable food system – and one that ensures everyone has a say on the future of food in our city.

Main photo and film by Jason Taylor

Read more: Tackling food inequality in Bristol from a converted school bus

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